We all graduate from our lash certificate course full of ambition and buzz. But what we often find after we have a few “real clients (this excludes family and friends who are happy to get free lashes)” is that there are A LOT of things we don’t know how to handle!
If you’re struggling as a newbie lash artist, you’re not alone. To help put your mind at ease, our experts have compiled common mistakes that novice lash artists make and how to fix them.
Keep reading to learn how to dramatically improve your lashing techniques by correcting small details!
The eyepieces are not fitted correctly
Eye patches! This seemingly simple step can create a number of problems if not done correctly.
If the eye pads are placed incorrectly, they will be extremely uncomfortable for your client, it will also lift the inner corner lashes, resulting in incorrect spacing and an overall messy look when your client opens their eyes.
What is very important is that patches should never touch the waterline. This could lead to a chemical burn or even bruised eyes.
Tip 1. One of the main reasons for bloodshot eyes is placing the pads too close to the eye and scratching the eyeballs. To avoid this, place the pads at least 1-2mm below the lower waterline (the skin line between the eyelashes and the eye).
Tip 2. In case the pads don’t fit the shape of your client’s face and create air pockets between the skin and the pad, leading to poor grip, you can also cut the bottom of the pads before attaching them.
Our final advice for novice lash artists is to (1) choose the right under-eye pads for the right eye shape and (2) choose high-quality eye pads that hold the lower lashes well as well as (3) choose those that do not have too many additional ingredients that could cause irritation to your customer’s eyes.
Read more about it here:
Using too much or too little adhesive
If you’re wondering why your client’s lashes aren’t lasting as long as they should, it’s probably because of the amount of eyelash extension glue you’re using.
So firstly, don’t drag the lash on the glue, this will just create a film of glue on the extension and it will dry before it grips the lash properly.
At the same time, you don’t want a ball of glue on the extension! More glue isn’t going to make for more retention. To make sure you use the right amount, dip the extension into the middle of the glue dot and slowly slide out. You want a little coating covering 2mm from the bottom of the eyelash extension.
Tip: When you have excess glue on the extension, don’t wipe it on a glue or gel palette! Simply dip the extension into the middle of the glue dot and slowly slide out. It will adjust to the correct amount of glue.
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You spend a lot of time trying to isolate the “perfect lashes”
Have you ever noticed that you spent enough time Looking for that perfect lash? Well, this is actually quite common! Many new lash artists take a long time to search and isolate lashes. Of course, we all want to only flaunt textbook perfect natural lashes. But remember whether you like it or not, your goal here is to add an extension to each natural lash.
If you’re having trouble isolating the lashes horizontally, it may help to go vertically first.
Tips: If a short natural lash keeps getting in the way of isolation (and your mind), use a “guide lash” to get it out of your way.
Place a thin 0.07mm extension on the tiny natural eyelash to make it more visible and controllable. Isolation will be much easier because now you can see and set aside the tiny eyelash.
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Incorrect placement of eyelash extensions
Cap distance is wrong
Getting the cap distance just right is tricky and takes a lot of practice to get perfect. It is either too close to the lid or too far. (<- both are bad!) This is one of the most common mistakes beginner artists make. Eyelash extensions should be placed 0.5mm away from the skin along the lash line.
There is not enough welding area
Regardless of the curl, length, direction you use, it is important to make sure that the base of the eyelash extension is fully attached to the natural eyelash, at least 2 mm.
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Brushing a lot and very often
Yes, we want our customers’ lashes to be absolutely perfect at all times. But sometimes we just have to hold back on brushing. One thing that tends to eat up a lot of unnecessary application time, especially with newer lash technicians, is the fluffiness of the lashes as they are applied.
If you think your over-brushing is caused by anxiety and uncertainty about the design, make sure you note the lash mapping (including curls and lengths) on the under-eye pads before you start application.
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Checklist for eyelash extension
Getting started as a lash artist can feel overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be! We’ve created the following checklist to make your lash journey easier.
Don’t forget to check:
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