If there’s one thing that’s sure to cause a novice lash stylist to panic, it’s a client experiencing a severe allergic reaction during application. It’s scary for you and incredibly unpleasant for your customer. Knowing how to patch test can help prevent this crisis from happening in the first place.
In this post, I’ll explain how to conduct a patch test, step-by-step, and also answer some of the most common questions about the process and why it’s necessary.
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How to do a Patch Test for Eyelash Extensions
1- Plan ahead
Always schedule your patch test at least 24 hours before your appointment. This will give plenty of time for the glue to harden (which it actually does within 4 hours) and you’ll know for sure that your client can tolerate it.
You can really have this appointment a full consultation – it’s an opportunity to learn about your client’s desired style and come up with a lash map. You can also use it to ask your client to fill out a consent form and teach them about aftercare.
2- The extension method
As for the actual patch test, the method I recommend is pretty simple – apply about 10 to 12 extensions to the outer corners of your client’s eyes. I find this method to be by far the most reliable as it is exactly the same type of exposure as for a full set of eyelash extensions, only in reduced volume.
Since it is such a small amount of extensions and so far from the tear duct, if a reaction occurs it will be easy to handle.
3- Eyelash glue
Some lash stylists like to apply a little glue to the outer corner lashes, rather than applying the actual extensions. I’m not a fan though – there’s more risk of sticking to your client’s skin, which can dry out or irritate you.
Plus, you end up with a layer of glue on your client’s lashes before the appointment. That said, this method could work quickly if you’re in a hurry and really don’t have the time to apply a few extensions.
4- Skin sticker
Another method that some stylists like is to apply a dot of glue to the client’s skin, usually behind the ear where it won’t be visible. This is my least favorite method because it is extremely unreliable.
Your customer’s skin may be able to tolerate the glue, but that doesn’t mean it would be fine near their eyes. Remember that the skin of the eyelids is much thinner and more sensitive than other areas.
5- Testing multiple adhesives
If you know you’re dealing with a client with very reactive skin or eyes, consider trying some adhesives, especially if you have a dye-free or low-cyanoacrylate option. You can do one glue on one eye and another on the other eye – make sure you note which is which!
6- Dealing with a reaction
So what if your customer has a reaction to the glue? Ask the client to return to the salon for removal as soon as possible.
Reactions from a patch are usually not serious, so you can advise your client to use a cold compress or eye drops and wait for the symptoms to subside. That being said, if the reaction is severe or does not go away, your client may need to seek medical attention.1
At a later date, you can try another patch test with a different adhesive if your client is so inclined and if it was just irritation. If your client had an allergic reaction, it generally won’t go away and your client will have it forever.
Do I need a Patch Test for Eyelash Extensions?
If you have sensitive eyes or skin and this is your first time getting eyelash extensions, then yes, you definitely need a patch test. In fact, I recommend that everyone do a patch test before their first time, regardless.
If you do turn out to be allergic to an eyelash extension ingredient (usually, it’s the cyanoacrylate in the glue), it’s much better to find out with a small, easy-to-remove test patch than with a full set of eyelash extensions.
What does an eyelash extension test reaction look like?
There are two types of reactions a person can have to an eyelash extension application: Allergy (ie allergic contact dermatitis) and irritation (ie irritant contact dermatitis).2
Visually, it can be difficult to tell the difference between the two. With both, the eyes usually become red and watery while the skin around them will be red, swollen, or scaly. Your client will likely feel some discomfort, such as stinging, itching, or pain.
Allergy is the worst of the two as it means your client will most likely not be able to get eyelash extensions again. The reaction is usually immediate but can appear hours after application. The biggest sign that you are experiencing an allergic reaction is swelling of the eyelids and skin under the eyes.
Irritation is almost always immediate and is usually caused by fumes from the eyelash glue or contact of the glue with the skin. If you remove the lashes and glue, it will clean up right away.
You may also want to pay attention to where the reaction occurs, especially if it’s mostly under the eyes. Sometimes, clients don’t react to the eyelash extension glue but to the glue from the under eye patches or the medical tape you used.
I discuss this in more detail in my guide to allergic reactions to eyelash extensions.
Frequent questions
Where do I do a patch test for eyelash extensions?
I always recommend doing the patch test on the outer corner of the lash line. The skin behind the ear or wrist can also be used but is less reliable.
When to do a patch test?
Schedule the patch at least 24 hours before your eyelash extension appointment.
Should you have an eyelash extension pad test form?
Yes! For legal reasons, an appropriate consent form should be signed before any eyelash extension service is performed.
How long should an eyelash test take?
From start to finish, a patch test should only take about 15 minutes, although it can take a bit longer if you combine it with a full consultation. Then allow at least 24 hours to pass to see that there are no problems and proceed with the eyelash extensions.
The bottom line
Patches can be a little annoying, but having a client develop an allergic reaction in your treatment bed is a much worse experience. Take your time with him and use the patch test as an opportunity to do a full consultation – it will save you time on the day of the appointment.
Finally, it’s worth mentioning that a patch test isn’t a complete safety net – sometimes, clients will develop an allergy after months of regular eyelash extension appointments. This constant exposure over time is actually what leads to the allergy.
Do you have any allergy horror stories? Would you like me to clarify something about patch testing eyelash extensions? Leave a comment below and I’ll make sure to answer!
– Asako 🙂
bibliographical references
- Cleveland Clinic (2019) Contact dermatitis. Retrieved from (Accessed March 21, 2023)
- Richard P. Usatine, MD, And Marcela Riojas, MD (2010). American Family Physician. Diagnosis and Treatment of Contact Dermatitis. Retrieved from (Accessed March 21, 2023)
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Asako Ito is the co-founder of Divine Lashes and a certified lash stylist. She has gained recognition for her modern techniques in the eyelash industry.
Holding multiple certifications and licenses including Luxury Eye, THE LASH SHOP, World Microblading and The Lash Bible, she has a constant thirst for knowledge. These credentials reflect her commitment to excellence and staying at the forefront of lash and brow art.
With over 10 years of experience, Asako is constantly increasing her knowledge as both a technician and educator by working with top lash artists worldwide. You can read her full bio here.