Is there anything more rewarding in a lash artist’s day than seeing your client giggle in the mirror as they admire their gorgeous extensions? It doesn’t matter if you’re a 20-year veteran in the business, there’s always a sense of joy when the customer just can’t stop batting their eyelashes in admiration.
A particularly rewarding feeling is when you work on a great new set of lash volume fans. Its absolute luxury! Honestly, every time we see them “in the wild”, they never fail to take our breath away.
Have you perfected the volume lash fan method? If not, fear not, because in this post we’re going to give you some tips on how to create amazing voluminous lashes.
What makes a perfect volume lash fan?
The perfect volume eyelash fan should have equal distance between individual lashes, β size ratio between the body and base of the fan, and an area of ββ2~3mm to apply the glue, and it should also be symmetrical.
We, as human beings, love to see perfection around us, so anything a little off tends to be seen as ugly. (We may not want to admit this to ourselves, but it applies to so many things.) That’s why a perfect eyelash fan needs to have the exact right proportions. If it’s not, then, well, it can’t be perfect, right?
Even after a few weeks after application, evenly spaced fans maintain a much better overall appearance than uneven fans.
Using “Imperfect fans” might be tempting, but see the end result here. When you use the perfectly crafted fans, the overall look of the set is much more neat and pleasing.
A fan suitable for every customer
Just as we tailor everything else to our client’s needs and natural lashes, so we must do the same when it comes to creating volume fans. When it comes to volume fans, there are different types of sizes and styles to choose from. It is up to you and your client to decide what is best.
Wide fan vs. narrow fan
If your client loves a light and fluffy look, a wide fan is the way to go. Since it is not as dense as other types of volumizing fans, the lashes will appear shorter and less impressive. So make sure your client knows this before you start. When working with wide fans, be sure not to leave the stem too short as this will affect retention.
The overall width of the fan should not exceed 6 mm (ΒΌ inch). Fan wider than this tends to look messy and make fitting quite difficult.
Narrow fans are ideal for a more even, denser look. It also creates a surprisingly dramatic top line (femme fatale vibes, anyone?). Keep the stems long enough to prevent the lashes from looking messy and uneven.
Thin base vs flat base
One of the most amazing things about handmade volume binding is its versatility in style. As an artist, you can choose which base best suits the look you’re trying to achieve.
Thin base lashes can be attached anywhere from the top of the natural lash, to the bottom, and even to the sides. If you’re aiming for a neater look, then this is the way to get it. Not only that, a thin foundation volume fan can wrap completely around a natural lash – giving great hold.
A flat base, on the other hand, can only be placed above or below the natural lash. A volume fan with a flat base will not curl the natural lash as much as a fan with a thin base does, but it has its own value. The flat base lash fan can create a darker impression along the lash line, which helps fill in the gap if your client has sparse natural lashes.
If you somehow always end up with a flat-base fan when you actually intended to make a thin-base fan, it may be your glue that dries too quickly even before you start wrapping the fan. Try a glue that gives you an extra 1-2 seconds to complete the effect you want to achieve.
Read more: Eyelash Extension Glue and Moisture: A Complete Guide
What are the different volume methods out there?
Technique out of film
Great for beginners, this technique allows you to move individual volumizing lashes to either the same strip or a different strip. Essentially what you’re doing there is picking up a volume lash, separating it from the rest that’s on the tape, and then opening the lashes. When this is done, you can grab the lash in the middle and pull up and towards you to lift the lash.
Lean and pick technique
In the lean and pick technique, you lift the fan close to the base, making sure it doesn’t go over the top. Then you place it on the strip, tilt it and pluck the lashes open (hence the name). This method is good for easily manipulating each individual eyelash so that the fan opens evenly. Use it as often as you can to familiarize yourself with the lashes to create perfect little fans.
Pinching technique
Start by taking a lash from the strip, then hold it firmly between your thumb and forefinger (use your tweezers to maintain a grip if needed). It is very important not to accidentally roll the base! Continue pinching with your fingers while simultaneously using your tweezers to slowly open the fan. Once you have the fan the way you want it, dip it in glue and spread it out.
Practice at home
If you still don’t feel comfortable enough to attempt to stick a volume fan on a loved one, try different fan sizes and ventilation techniques at home first.
Sponge method
An easy way to practice is to use a makeup sponge. With a sponge, it’s easy for you to see how well you’ve stuck the lashes on, which helps you be more precise. You can even practice your angle placement. Of course, a sponge doesn’t really mimic the eye, but it’s still a better way to practice than using a real live person for it!
Mannequin method
If you have a practice mannequin head at home, then even better to practice your lashing techniques. Place the mannequin head on your lash bed, making sure to maintain good posture. Then start creating the volume fans and apply them to the mannequin’s head as you would if she were a real customer.
Do you like Russian Volume Lashes? Here are some must have products for you
Russian Volume Lashes are simply gorgeous and there is no match for them. If you’re as big a fan of them as we are, we recommend it Mink eyelash extensions in sizes 0.03, 0.05 and 0.07.
Depending on your eyelash speed, we also recommend thin, fast-drying eyelash glue, such as Mach glue for the fast among us, or thick eyelash glue such as Glam glue, which has a drying time of 4 to 5 seconds. And of course, as with any lash technique, you will need good tweezer for eyelash extension!
Now that you’re armed with all of this knowledge, we hope you’ll start practicing your volume lash fan techniques as soon as you read this post.
Nice shot!
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Read more:
How to calculate the volume and weight of eyelashes
How to choose Premade Lash Fans
A complete instruction: How to use Easy Fanning Lashes
Ways to improve your eyelash extension isolation skills
Lower Lash Extensions – Learn how to do it